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We got up pretty early and decided to visit Mangan viewpoint. Having learned from our yesterday's experience that walking along the busy highway is less than desirable, we hired a taxi to get us there, and that was the right decision indeed. The viewpoint itself was not too bad but the littered path that led down to it left me with the distinct impression that nobody cared to maintain the site properly.
We then came back, picked up our stuff, and set out for Gangtok via the route that would take us past three historic gompas: Phodong, Labrang, and Phensang. Jigmi arranged for a car with a driver to take us through; the bright little car, though appeared tiny, was quite comfortable and possessed an excellent maneuverability.
We left Mangan shortly after 11:00, and at 12:15 we arrived to Phodong Gompa. This monastery, belonging to the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, holds a special place for Wanchuk's family because his late grandmother was from this area. Just a few days ago I witnessed Phodong lamas make tormas at the main Martam House when they came there for a week of Shapten prayers. In fact, one of the lamas invited me to visit Phodong, and I hoped to find him there. However, this Sunday the monastery looked deserted: most monks were away visiting their families. The remaining novices occupied themselves with playing a baseball-like Guli Danda game when a big wooden stick strikes the smaller one like a bat strikes a ball.
When we approached the temple I could not help but notice its remarkable palette of strikingly bright primary colors. Even though Lonely Planet frets over metal gratings “marring” the gompa, I didn't find the metal decorations to be out of character.
I was fascinated by the architectural and sculptural details outside the main building, …
… as well as by a truly remarkable sign that admonished the reader not to engage in such “prohibitated misbehaviours” as—among other sins—magic, dice, video games, and a somewhat mysterious MMS.
Once inside the temple, we came upon The Sidkeon Tulku and Ani Alexandra David-Néel Memorial Hall. Alexandra David-Néel (1868–1969) was a legendary explorer, the first European woman to visit Lhasa in 1924. However, it was in Sikkim where in 1912 she first met the 13th Dalai Lama who was there at the time, fleeing the Chinese invasion. While in Sikkim, Alexandra met crown prince Sidkeon Tulku and visited all great monasteries of Sikkim.
When she was in Lachen, Alexandra David-Néel met the great Lachen's Gomchen (hermit). He was an impressive figure wearing a five-sided crown, a rosary necklace of 108 pieces of human skull, an apron carved of human bone, and a magic dagger. In 1914, while on one of her journeys throughout Sikkim, Alexandra met Aphur Yongden , a young Sikkimese monk who became her lifelong traveling companion and later her adopted son. Together they moved to a cave hermitage in the mountains near Lachen, 3,900 meters above sea level. From there, even though it was forbidden to visit Tibet, they managed to cross into Tibetan territory, meeting the Panchen Lama in Shigatse in 1916. When the British authorities learned about this—Sikkim was then a British protectorate—Alexandra and Yongden were expelled from Sikkim the same year.
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The amazingly bright and pure color scheme that first caught my attention on the outside of the temple was evident everywhere inside as well.
We climbed the stairs and enjoyed the tranquil view from the balcony.
Having come back down we saw a whole battery of tormas drying on a ledge outside the temple.
The weather was unstable: periods of sunshine were followed by sudden powerful rains. After the shower the pure, triumphant colors of the main temple and of the lamas' houses seemed especially bright and shiny.
We came back to the car and in less than 10 minutes arrived to Labrang Gompa. I have to say that from the architectural point of view Labrang Gompa is the most unusual I have seen in Sikkim:
- its very masonry is completely different from that of other Sikkimese monasteries I've seen;
- there is a small wooden balcony on each side of the temple—a feature I haven't seen anywhere else;
- the band of red brick that is typically located very close to the main roof runs unusually low here; the band itself is adorned by inset stone medallions;
- similar inset medallions run on the first story level throughout the whole perimeter of the temple; and
- the shapes, designs, and colors of doors, balconies, and windows are all most unusual.
The Gompa sits on a gentle hill and is surrounded by lush, verdant, and peaceful landscape. Labrang truly is one of the most atmospheric and serene monasteries of Sikkim.
I would venture to say that while Sangachoeling Gompa is one of my favorites as far as its interior is concerned, Labrang Gompa is one of the most impressive in terms of its exterior.
It was time to have lunch. We climbed back to the little car and continued our journey. Our driver was extremely good; the ride was comfortable despite sometimes challenging road conditions.
We stopped in Phodong for a lunch of momos.
It was about 15:00 when we arrived to our final stop on the way to Gangtok, Phensang Gompa. The compound looked deserted: like in Phodong, the monks were away visiting their family on Sunday, and the main temple was locked. Crossing the yard we went to the secondary prayer hall that looked old and quaint, with the ceiling of blue beams, crumbling murals on one wall, an old altar in front, simple boarded floor, and a yellow lattice running in between red wooden columns opposite the murals. Gentle sunlight was coming through the yellow grid giving the old hall the feeling of warmth and tranquility.
Wanchuk asked a young boy if there was anyone around to show us inside the main temple, and the boy said that the only one around was an old groundskeeper. He then ran out to fetch him, while we approached the Gompa and took some photos. The most unusual feature of the Gompa was a metal grille with eight lucky signs.
Sernya (golden fish) |
Dug (parasol) |
Palbheu (endless knot) |
Dhungkar (white conch) |
Pema (lotus) |
Bhumpa (vase) |
Choekyi Khorlo (wheel of dharma) |
Gyaltsen (victorious banner) |
Meanwhile the old man appeared. Wanchuk asked him if we could see the main prayer hall but the man said he didn't have the keys. We then started heading toward the compound exit while Wanchuk and the old man continued talking in Sikkimese. Suddenly the man's tone of voice changed; I turned around and saw his eyes lit up and his whole demeanor transform: he became quite animated. It turned out that he had great respect for Wanchuk's grandfather, and he voted for him in Chogyal's time, when Martam Topden was the leader of the Sikkim National Party. These elections must have taken place before he became Senior Executive Councillor, thus the groundskeeper was referencing the events that happened some time in the 1960s, more than 40 years ago. We returned to the main temple; he unlocked the door and let us in. Priceless old thangkas were hanging from the ceiling of the large and quiet main prayer hall. We walked around the hall, paid our respects and stepped outside.
We said goodbye to the old groundskeeper and headed back to our car past a couple of traditional Sikkimese houses.
This has been a great day: we have seen and learned so much! It was already getting dark when our driver safely delivered us to Gangtok. The sky looked like it was going to rain; Wanchuk was worried that given the weather and the road conditions it might not be a good idea for the driver to go all the way back to Mangan, and he offered the guy to stay overnight. The driver, however, decided to go back. Hopefully, he reached Mangan without any problems.
Check out Wanchuk's blog entry for the same day.
1 comments:
I have to admit that your entry is beyond great, it is spectacular. Thank you for the research and the great work.
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